As of today, I have been here one month! It's hard to believe, and since the first two weeks, which seemed like ages, it's gone by extremely fast. After I got pretty well settled in, I fully realized that it's pretty ridiculously awesome that I get to be here and do amazing things.
This thought dawned on me as I was driving through the South African countryside with 12 international students on our way to a Zulu wedding on Valentine's Day. The last two weekends here have been amazing and what I think were once in a lifetime opportunities. The reason that I haven't written anything about them, or posted any of my hundreds of photos is because my laptop has been dying and I was hoping to write on it, then upload it on the internet in the computer lab, and same with the photos. But since it won't do anything but give me a black screen....that hasn't really been possible, so I'm going to try to cram alot into this post and hope that my laptop can be salvaged.
The zulu wedding trip was organized by a student here whose uncle was getting married and he was kind enough to allow about 20 or so international students and some local students to come and experience it with them. On Saturday, we left in a big van, called a kumbe here, and headed out towards Pietermaritzburg for the church wedding. As guests of the groom, we joined the caravan (this is a Zulu tradition) that goes to pick up the bride from her house and meet the bride's family and guests there. Her home was in a township up on a hill with a great view and the whole neighborhood was out to see her off. She was in a beautiful white dress and the bridesmaids wore yellow and lime with yellow roses. We all then headed off to the church were the ceremony commenced, mostly in Zulu. Because of this, I was never really clear on what was happening/being said, but I know that there were many different parts from what we are used to as a Christian wedding in the states. The church was more of a modern day charismatic church as well, with a drum set and speakers up on what would be the altar area in the front. The ceremony was nice and the bride and groom did the Zulu wedding walk down the aisle on their way out, to upbeat music pumping from the speakers, which reminded me of the rock that we do down the aisle in Gospel Choir for concerts (I am sorry this is hard to explain if you haven't seen any of it..). We took lots of pictures and other wedding guests took pictures with us as well, they seemed just as interested in us and our culture as we were in theirs. Still, it was a mildly awkward at first to be at a wedding where I didn't know anyone. Quickly though we got over this and everyone was very welcoming to us.
After the wedding we went with the wedding party to the KwaZulu-Natal Botanic Gardens for photos. We walked around some and took our own photos while they took theirs. They even had us international students pose in one photo with the bride. I can't wait to see that one. After that, the bridal party, who's cars had been decorated with ribbons, drove around Pietermaritzburg waving their bouquets out the windows and we followed behind in the van, the driver blaring South African house music. I got to see what that city was like a little bit as well and it was really fun to be in on the celebration. We also went to the reception where we were all extremely happy to sit down and have some food and drink, since it was extremely hot and we had been going going going all day. It was probably in the high 80s or low 90s that day with high humidity. I missed our coastal Durban air. We didn't get to stay at the reception too long though because we were piled back into the van to go out to one of the family's homes in a semi-rural area for more ceremoniousness. To be more specific, we were going to the ceremonial cow slaughter. Ok I know this sounds terribly disgusting, but you have to remember that we were going to a community of farmers and laborers who live off the land. This is how we were going to have food for all the guests and family to eat the next day. The Zulu culture has a heavy regard for the ancestors and so this was also a necessary part of honoring the ancestors during this happy time and giving thanks for the good fortune. Some of the students were interested in this ceremony, others weren't and stayed in the van or at a distance but we were all respectful of the tradition and cultural difference. I watched a little bit from a distance and spent some time looking at my pictures in the van, but I can say that it was all done in a human way and nothing went to waste. I'm glad I was there because afterward I was invited inside with some of the other students who were standing around (it started to rain) and it was a truly unique experience to interact with the family inside their humble but welcoming home. The house was large because it housed an extended family, but mostly made of cement and very simple. The living room however was made up very nicely and the family seemed proud to have us come in and sit and speak with them, in our limited capacity. They spoke little English and we little Zulu. At that point I could really only say hi, how are you, and what is your name. The little kids were the best. They were fascinated by us and two of them just leaned over the arm of the couch I was on and stared at me. I tried to speak to them but they were too quiet and I couldn't understand them. They were interested in my friend's camera so I showed them some pictures and pointed at the people in the room who were in them, then took pictures of them and showed them themselves, which they loved. I also taught them how to high five. They were so adorable. I also got to try some of the very fresh steak after it was cooked over the fire, which was an interesting experience (very chewy). Eventually though it was time to leave the very cute kids and go to the place we would be staying the night- a family friend of the student who organized the trip.
The next day we got ourselves together and got a quick breakfast at Wimpy's (like a Friendly's) and went back to the same home we were at last night. It's actually considered to be a semi-rural area. There is limited running water and electricity. The yard and home were filled with people- community members, family, guests, and the pile of us. It was raining again and with all the people, the yard had turned to red mud. That didn't stop the celebration in any way though. After the bride paraded down the hill to the house with her bridal party, guests broke into traditional dancing in a circle. It was so cool to be standing right there and in the circle. The traditional Zulu dance is to lift one leg as high as you can into the air, and others clap on the beat when you stomp that foot back down (it's hard to explain so luckily I have plenty of video). This often sprays mud into the air so it was a messy but jubilant affair. The dancing was done by mostly males who had impressive flexibility. The day consisted of much of this dancing. There were also a few instances of the elder women parading by singing and carrying special plants. The main focus of the day was when the bride gave out blankets to each member of the groom's family (close and extended). This is to signify that she is ready and capable of caring for all of them now. It was an interesting ceremony. After it was done it was time for the meal. All the international students ate together in a room in the house and the food was excellent. There was some yellow rice, beef in a curry type sauce, potato, steam bread (traditional bread that is soft and gooey), and Zulu beer. Zulu beer is extremely strange. It's fruit and wheat and is only fermented for 3 days. It is the color and consistency of chai tea. We all only had a little taste and that was all we really needed. It's definitely an acquired taste. After the meal we spent some time outside, wandering around the house and interacting with some other guests and the little kids. Some of the local woman asked if we were married and when we said no, they said, "Good, you will be my daughter-in-law, you will marry my son!" The older individuals there expressed their happiness that we were able to come and that we were interested and cultures were mixing. An older gentlemen did his best to convey this to me in English an I got the point and was really flattered because I was so happy that they were willing to have us there. We tried very hard not to be spectators but to interact with everyone. On the way out, waiting for the van to come around, I saw two young boys playing in the neighboring yard with a soccer ball made out of plastic bag full of other platic bags. It really hit me then that while it was great to visit this place, we also get to leave and come back to campus. The people there were so full of life and kind and vibrant but the difference between here and there was undeniable. The entire weekend was one enlightening experience, one that I enjoyed and was happy to have gotten the opportunity to go on.
I think that I will have to save this past weekend's trip for my next post, as well as a class update, but I wanted to at least start catching back up. I hope everything is going well for everyone.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
goodness emma you are such an amazing writer!! once again enjoyed your post and will look forward to the next. it's so awesome that you are able to experience all of this while you are away!! love and miss ya!
ReplyDeleteWow that sounds amazing... what a great experience. You need to get me some South African house music!
ReplyDeletelitte kids love cameras, good to know thats universal! haha, and i'd also like to hear that music!
ReplyDeleteA couple of things came to mind when I read this. In the class I am a teaching assistant in we are studying in depth the Samburu a Kenyan society. Pasturalists, they love their cattle; a wedding is completed only when a cow is slaughtered by the groom in front of the women's hut. This cow killing in your account of the Zulu wedding reminded me of this, did the groom have the first spear thrust into the cows neck?
ReplyDeleteSecondly the Zulu beer sounds like a typical Kenyan beer, its fermented quickly and has the consistency of porridge. Elders drink this stuff basically 24/7 as its more of a meal than a drink.
The kind of Zulu dance sounds like Samburu dance to me. Samburu males show prowess by jumping as high in the air as possible ( watch the movie the air up there with Kevin Bacon to see what i mean as the native group are actually samburu, haha)
Being respectful of cultural differences is known as cultural relativism and its the central tenet of cultural anthropology. Since you followed it so well you could easily pass the class I am helping teaching.
Lastly do you encounter any ki-swahli, its the dominant language of East Africa. I was wondering if it made it as far south as South Africa.
wow emma! sounds like an amazing trip! i really think it's great that the people there are so friendly and welcoming - it shows you how good people really can be.
ReplyDeleteI loved reading this...i felt like i experienced it with you!
love you & hope classes are going well!
xoxoxox
Ian-
ReplyDeleteThanks for making the whole thing a little more graphic, but I wasn't there for the first spearing, so I'm not sure, but that may have been the case. Cattle is also very valuable in Zulu culture.
Zulu dancing is very similar to Samburu dancing, there is definitely prowess connected to how high you can kick your leg up. I've seen The Air Up There (I believe we rented it together from Video Plus back in the day) but could use a re-watching to look for the dancing.
Zulu beer would also work as a meal if you could stomach that much, which I'm sure the elders can.
Thanks for the compliment on cultural relativism.
I don't think I've encountered any ki-Swahili here. Most students are from South Africa, Zambia, Zimbabwe, and Botswana. I know there are a few Kenyan students but I haven't heard them speak. Good luck with your studies, sounds like you're learning alot!
so i just youtubed this zulu kick dancing and if it looks anything like this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsT2i0w3bv8) you're definitely going to have to demonstrate when you come home.
ReplyDeleteOmg emma that is sooo sooo awsome!!! I really want to go to Africa, and plan B for life is now peace corps!!! Cant wait to see pictures of ur experiences...pura vida (the expression for like everything here, means pure life i think i want to get a tatoo of this b4 i leave haha)
ReplyDelete